Hardy Grains for Cool-Weather Meals

When you need a grain to cushion stews and stir-fries, to stuff into vegetables, or to power pilafs, chances are you reach for rice. And while there’s nothing wrong with rice—particularly if you’ve made the switch to brown—exploring a variety of whole grains can expand your culinary horizons and add even greater nourishment to your meals. Whole grains are particularly apropos to cook and serve with fall harvest produce. Often distinctively flavored and textured, these grains hold their own with the season’s hardy crops.

Apart from adding character to meals, whole grains are superb sources of fiber and protein, while remaining blessedly low in fat. Because the bran and germ are left intact, they also are fine sources of B vitamins, vitamin E, and an array of minerals.

It would certainly be possible to be health-conscious and never eat millet or quinoa. But why miss out on one of the richest sources of sustenance available? If you aren’t using whole grains simply because they’re foreign to you, let this guide get you started. And if you are already a whole grains fan, read on for tips and techniques and a handful of hearty recipes.

Pot Barley

The pearl variety of barley is tasty and versatile, but you may want to try pot barley for greater nutritional impact. Pearl barley loses half its vitamin and mineral content and much of its fiber when its bran and germ are removed. Pot barley undergoes just enough “pearling” to remove the tough hull. It’s a chewy, mild-tasting grain that’s every bit as versatile as it is in its more refined form. Use as a change-of pace from rice as a bed of grains, or in pilafs and casseroles; in soups, hot or cold; and in marinated grain salads.

Cooking: Use 3 to 3 1/2 parts water to 1 part grain. Bring the water to a simmer in a saucepan, then stir in the grain. Simmer gently but steadily, covered, until the water has been absorbed, about 45 to 50 minutes.

Buckwheat Groats

These toasty-brown, pyramid-shaped seeds, sometimes marketed as “kasha,” come from a plant related to rhubarb. In both groat and flour forms, buckwheat is far more extensively used in Near Eastern, Asian, and Eastern European cuisines. Bold-flavored and aromatic, it combines well with sautéed onion, celery, cabbage, and fresh herbs. It make a good grain for stuffing winter squashes and other vegetables, and is often used in Jewish specialties. Groats come in fine, medium, and coarse grinds, which varies their cooking times.

Cooking: Use 2 parts water or vegetable stock to 1 part grain. Bring the liquid to a simmer in a saucepan. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon oil for every cup groats used in a large heavy skillet. Add the groats and stir quickly to coat with the oil. Toast over medium heat, stirring frequently, until they darken further and become very aromatic, about 4 to 5 minutes. Pour the liquid over them and cover. Simmer gently until the liquid is absorbed, about 15 to 25 minutes (depending on the grind).

Millet

This small round, yellow seed is nourishing and versatile, with a mild flavor and a slightly mushy texture. While it is most welcome on the dinner table, you might also consider it a good choice as a hot cooked cereal embellished with honey, chopped nuts, dried fruit, and soymilk—especially if you cook it the night before. Because of its cohesive texture, millet works well in casseroles and souffles, and as a stuffing for vegetables.

Cooking: Experiment with different water-to-grain ratios to vary the texture. Use 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 parts water to 1 part grain. The less water used, the drier the result; more water will yield a porridge-like consistency. Bring water to a simmer in a saucepan, then stir in the grain. Simmer gently but steadily, covered, until the water has been absorbed and the grains have burst, about 35 to 45 minutes. Millet’s flavor is enhanced by toasting the grains in a dry or lightly oiled skillet for 4 to 5 minutes before cooking.

Quinoa

Ouinoa is a rediscovered “superfood” that was once a staple crop of the South American Incas. Small and sand colored grain, its nutritional profile makes quinoa a standout, with exceptionally high-quality protein and a wide range of minerals. Quinoa is also a culinary delight, cooking to a fluffy texture in just 15 minutes, with a light yet unique flavor. Use it as a bed of grains for bean and vegetable dishes, in pilafs, and grain salads.

Cooking: Use 2 parts water or vegetable stock to 1 part grain. Bring the liquid to a simmer in a saucepan. Stir in the grain, then cover and simmer gently for 15 minutes, or until the water is absorbed. Like other grains, the nutty flavor of quinoa is enhanced by toasting it lightly in a dry or lightly oiled skillet for about 5 minutes before cooking.

Bulgur

Made from parboiled, dried and cracked wheat berries, bulgur is chewy, hearty, and versatile. Perhaps best know as the base for the tasty grain salad tabbouleh, bulgur also makes great pilafs; it combines well with nuts and dried fruits, and with beans and fresh herbs. It may also be used in casseroles and as a replacement for rice in many dishes.

Cooking: Use 2 parts water to 1 part grain. The traditional way to cook bulgur is to pour the boiling water over it in a heatproof container, then cover, and let stand for 30 minutes. If you need it cooked more quickly, bring water to a simmer in a saucepan. Stir in the grain, then cover and simmer gently for 15 minutes, or until the water is absorbed.

Wild Rice

A true native of North America, wild rice is unrelated to rice. It’s technically not a grain, but rather the seed of a tall, aquatic grass. The distinctive flavor of wild rice goes a long way; it is commonly paired with brown or white rice and used as a base for flavorful pilafs and marinated salads. Great embellishments for wild rice include fresh herbs, celery, nuts, and dried fruits.

Cooking: Use 3 to 4 parts water to 1 part grain, depending on how chewy you like it. Bring the water to a simmer in a saucepan, then stir in the grain. Cover and simmer gently for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed.

Whole-Grain Berries

The whole kernels, or groats, of many types of grains are available in well-stocked natural foods stores. You can choose from among whole oats, wheat, triticale, spelt, kamut, and rye. With all their whole-grain goodness still intact, they have a warm, nutty flavor and chewy texture. Try tossing a handful of cooked whole-grain berries into salads and soups; combining them with lighter grains in pilafs; adding them to bread dough, and garnishing noodle dishes with them.

Cooking: Use 3 1/2 to 41/2 parts water to 1 part grain, depending on how chewy you like it. Bring the water to a simmer in a saucepan, then stir in the grain. Simmer gently but steadily, covered, until the water has been absorbed, about 50 to 60 minutes. At the end of cooking time, if you’d like them more done, add an additional 1/2 cup of water and cook until absorbed; repeat until done to your liking. Presoaking whole-grain berries in a covered saucepan with water that has come to a simmer can cut down on cooking time.

Millet-Stuffed Golden Squashes

Serves 4 generously

Millet is an excellent grain to use for stuffing vegetables, since it cooks to a slightly adhesive quality. And using sweet, small orange squashes makes for a festive and filling entree.

• 4 small organic winter squashes (carnival, golden acorn, delicata, or other)
• 2/3 cup raw millet
• 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large organic onion, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 medium organic red bell pepper, finely diced
• 2 tablespoons wheat germ
• 1/4 cup grated fresh Parmesan cheese or soy Parmesan
• 1/3 cup fresh organic orange juice
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• Extra wheat germ for topping

Bring the water to a simmer in a saucepan. Stir in the millet, then cover and simmer gently until the water is absorbed, about 35 to 40 minutes.

The squashes may be pre-baked in the oven or microwave. If using the oven, preheat it to 375 degrees.

Cut the squashes in half lengthwise. Place the halves in a baking dish, cut side up, with about 1/4 inch of water on the bottom, and cover. Bake in the oven for 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the type and size of squash used, until easily pierced with a knife but still nice and firm. Or, microwave on HIGH, allowing 4 to 7 minutes each for each small squash used. Test occasionally to make sure they don’t get overdone.

Allow the squashes to cool somewhat. When cool enough to handle, scoop out and discard the seeds. Scoop out the squash pulp, leaving a sturdy shell of about 1/2 inch all around. Chop the pulp finely.

Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the onion, garlic, and bell pepper and sauté over medium heat until the onion is golden. Add the cooked millet, wheat germ, Parmesan, orange juice, and seasonings. Stir together.

Stuff each pepper half generously with the millet mixture. Top with extra wheat germ and grated cheese, and sprinkle each with a little paprika for color. Cover loosely with foil and bake for 25 minutes. Uncover and bake for another 15 minutes, or until the peppers are done to your liking. Serve at once.

Buckwheat Groats with Vermicelli and Fall Vegetables

Serves 4 to 6

Buckwheat groats constitute an invigorating texture and assertive flavor to an otherwise mild pasta dish.

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 cup buckwheat groats (kasha)
• 16-ounce can vegetable broth
• 1 cup raw vermicelli (thin spaghetti), broken into 2-inch lengths
• 1 medium red bell pepper, cut into narrow 2-inch-long strips
• 1/2 medium jicama, peeled and cut into 1 /2-inch dice
• 1 cup firmly packed finely shredded green cabbage
• 2 medium leeks, light parts only, chopped and well-rinsed
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• 2 teaspoons poppy seeds, optional
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat half of the oil in a large skillet. Add the groats and stir quickly to coat them with the oil. Toast over medium heat, stirring frequently, until they turn darker and aromatic. Pour the broth over the groats and bring to a simmer.

Simmer gently until the water is absorbed, about 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the grind of the groats.

Cook the vermicelli separately until just al dente, then immediately rinse with cool water.

Heat the remaining oil in a large skillet or stir-fry pan. Add the red pepper, turnip, jicama, cabbage, and leeks, and stir-fry over medium heat until tender-crisp. Stir in the cooked groats and vermicelli along with the remaining ingredients and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, for 10 to 12 minutes. If the mixture seems dry, add just a bit of water. Serve at once.

Mixed Squash and Mushroom Sauté with Quinoa

Serves 4 to 6

For a delicious fall meal, serve this with sautéed soy sausage links and a salad of mixed baby greens and tomatoes.

• 1 cup raw quinoa, rinsed in a fine sieve
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1 medium zucchini, halved lengthwise and sliced
• 1 medium yellow summer squash, halved lengthwise and sliced
• 6 to 8 ounces crimini or baby bella mushrooms, sliced
• 1 or 2 fresh green chiles, seeded and minced, or 4-ounce can mild green chiles
• 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or cilantro
• 1/2 teaspoon each: dried oregano, ground cumin
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine 2 cups of water with the quinoa in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then cover and simmer gently until the water is absorbed, about 15 minutes.

Heat the oil in a large skillet or stir-fry pan. Add the onion and garlic and sauté over medium heat until translucent. Add the wine, squashes, mushrooms and chiles, and sauté over medium-high heat until the squashes are touched with golden spots.

Stir in the cooked quinoa along with the herbs and seasonings. Cook over very low heat, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes more. Serve at once.

Four-Grain Tomato Soup

Serves 8 or more

This savory medley of whole grains and vegetables in a tomato base will warm you when fall days get nippy.

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 large onion, quartered and thinly sliced
• 2 large celery stalks, finely diced
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and finely diced
• 1 large sweet potato, peeled and diced
• One 28-ounce can pureed or crushed tomatoes
• 1/4 cup bulgur
• 1/4 cup wild rice
• 1/4 cup millet or quinoa
• 1/4 cup pearl or pot barley
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 teaspoons salt-free seasoning mix (such as Spike or Mrs. Dash)
• 6 cups water
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a soup pot. Add the onion and sauté over medium heat for 5 to 8 minutes, until translucent. Add the celery, carrots, sweet potato, tomatoes, the four grains, bay leaves, and seasoning mix. Stir in the water and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently, covered, for one hour, stirring every 15 minutes or so.

If the soup is too dense, adjust with additional water and return to a gentle simmer. Add the dill and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer gently for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the grains and vegetables are tender.

If time allows, let the soup stand off the heat for an hour or two before serving, then heat through as needed. This soup thickens quite a bit as it stands. Add water as needed and adjust the seasonings.