Potatoes—Easy and Elegant

It’s surprising that many recipes in books and articles (including my own, mea culpa!), when calling for potatoes, merely state the size (such as “4 medium potatoes”) instead of specifying the variety. While potatoes are fairly interchangeable, different varieties yield different results. For example, russets, an oval, brown-skinned variety, are best for baking or stuffing, as they have a soft, mealy flesh. They also work well in soups in which it’s desirable for the potato to break down and thicken the stock.

Red-skinned potatoes and yellow-fleshed (Yukon Gold or Finnish Yellow) have firmer flesh, sometimes referred to as “waxy.” These are good for sautéing, in potato salads, and for making oven “fries,” as they hold their shape well. This isn’t to say that they’d be unwelcome in soups; and if you want to use them as a baking or stuffing potato, you just need to be sure they are thoroughly done.

• Roasted Potatoes and Tomatoes with Rosemary
• Leek and Red Pepper Hash Browned Potatoes
• Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes

Roasted Potatoes and Tomatoes with Rosemary

Serves: 6 to 8
Adapted from Vegetarian Celebrations

Roasted potatoes, flavored with rosemary, were a traditional dish of the old Roman Easter. Here is a contemporary interpretation of this dish.

• 6 medium red-skinned or yukon gold potatoes, preferably long and narrow
• 4 to 6 firm ripe plum tomatoes, sliced crosswise
• Olive oil
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary, or 1 teaspoon dried
• Minced chives
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Cook, bake, or microwave the potatoes in their skins until done but still nice and firm. Peel and slice crosswise 1/2 inch thick.

Oil a large, shallow baking dish. Alternate the potato slices with the tomato slices in rows. Drizzle lightly with olive oil, then sprinkle with the rosemary, chives, salt, and pepper.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the potatoes begin to turn golden and crisp around the edges.

Leek and Red Pepper Hash Browned Potatoes

Serves: 4 to 6
Adapted from The Vegetarian 5-Ingredient Gourmet

If you like leeks, you’re sure to enjoy this dressed-up version of hash browns. Use firm-textured potatoes, such as red-skinned or Yukon Gold, rather than mealy ones, for best results. Sauté some Tofurky sausage links, make a quick salad of mixed greens, pour a glass of white wine, and you have a simple yet elegant meal.

• 4 large or 6 medium red-skinned or Yukon gold potatoes
• 2 large or 3 medium leeks
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium red bell pepper, finely diced
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Microwave the potatoes in their skins until they are easily pierced with a knife but still firm. Set aside until cool enough to handle, peel, and slice about 1/2 inch thick.

Trim the tough green leaves and bottoms from the leeks and discard. Slice the leeks in half lengthwise, then into 1/4-inch slices crosswise. Place in a colander and rinse well.

Heat half of the oil in an extra-wide skillet. Add the leeks and sauté over medium-low heat, covered, until limp, about 6 to 8 minutes. Stir occasionally. Add the red pepper and continue to sauté, covered, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are soft, about 5 to 8 minutes.

Add the remaining oil and the potatoes. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook until the potatoes on the bottom are browned. Stir well and cook, until most of the mixture is nicely browned. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes

Serves: 6
Adapted from Great American Vegetarian

Mashed potatoes laced with smoky-flavored roasted garlic is a contemporary classic.

• 1 whole head garlic
• 6 large russet potatoes, peeled and diced
• 2 tablespoons nonhydrogenated margarine
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup rice milk
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• Thinly sliced scallion or minced chives for garnish

Remove some of the papery outer layers from the garlic but keep the cloves intact. Place on a baking sheet and bake in a 350-degree oven or 375-degree toaster oven for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the cloves are soft.

When cool enough to handle, gently separate the cloves from the head of garlic and squeeze the soft pulp out of each clove into a small bowl and discard the outer skin.

In the meantime, cover the diced potatoes with plenty of water in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer. Simmer steadily but gently, covered, until the potato dice are very tender, about 20 to 25 minutes, then drain.

In a large, shallow bowl, combine the cooked potato dice with the margarine and stir until melted. Add 1/4 cup of rice milk and the reserved garlic pulp and mash the potatoes until smooth and fluffy. If needed, add up to an additional 1/4 cup of milk to loosen the consistency.

Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a serving container. Sprinkle some scallion over the top and serve at once, or keep warm until needed.